Telfar

Talks tech and fabrics with Christian Holstad
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CH: The clothing designers I like best are those that make me feel something I haven’t felt in a garment . Its difficult for me to ask questions about your clothing objects as I am afraid I havent worn any of your work before.( I saw a show after closing hours at Balice Hertling but didn’t feel comfortable trying things on while Alexander was not there.) What Is the feeling your current line creates and how did that change from the last season?

TC:SS14 has a feeling of fluidity and customization in the sense that you can adjust many items to fit your body specifically. SS14 is also very heavily based on creating ready to wear garments with swim capabilities. AW13 was big on insulation and pairings to create a full garment. AW13 was focused on the warmth and comfort in extreme conditions.

CH: In your moonbleached F/W13 line you invited people to create looks online to be used for your upcoming show. What did you learn about the participants?

TC: I didn’t learn much about participants personally, as most of the submissions came online and there was no direct contact until winning looks were selected, but i did learn what items in the collection people liked and what colors in the collection were popular for the users.

CH: Is there a title for the upcoming season?

TC: I haven’t put my finger on it just yet ….but we like ‘FLUID’, because of the how the collection fits and who it’s intended for…(everybody), and also because of the swim connection to the function of the collection.

CH: Can I see a list of all materials used in the new collection?

TC: Nylon / Mesh / Cotton Jersey/ Leather/ Sterling Silver

CH: Do you know of the clothing label Ah-Men?

TC: No haven’t heard of it, I see the pic you sent…cute seems similar to International Male. one of my favorite menswear catalogs.

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CH: At one point I worked on embroidery prototypes for the GAP, they were long hour late nights with older women. I liked watching them get sleep deprived and dissolve into a drunk like state. While doing so I had heard about a national agency that would decide according to forecasts what colors would be used in the upcoming years. something like 4 or 5 years in advance.

From my understanding it had to do with prepping the public to buy what is coming. Also a means in which to lesson the amount of waste. If designers all chose whatever they wanted and grape was the color everyone wanted there would be too much waste at the end of the season. Have you heard about this?

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TC: No never heard of this. Being that I produce in NYC this would be impossible. Sounds Sci-Fi.

CH: Is it true?

TC: In fabric production countries probably? I have no clue.

CH: What was your favorite job (aside from self-employed) and how do you use this information in your practice today?

TC: I like a DJ’s schedule, but self-employed wins over anything considered work.

CUFFx

Interview: Christian Holstad
Lookbook Photos: Asger Carlsen
Video: Babak Radboy