Based in Bushwick Brooklyn, Daimorf is a unisex fashion label founded by Olivia Galov. Blair Waters sat down with Olivia at her Brooklyn studio to find out more about their sophomore collection.
“I was inspired by the idea of non-binary clothing,” says Olivia Galov, of her line, Daimorf. We’re sitting in her Bushwick studio with all white walls. Production for a Fall/Winter collection is already in the works as the room we meet in overflows with heavy lamb wool knits and light silk. But for now, we discuss the recent drop of Daimorf’s second collection. “Aesthetically, I enjoy juxtaposition: effeminate pieces on men, and vice versa. I didn’t want to make just womenswear, or menswear. Even the name of the brand itself— it’s a sort of phonetic play on dimorph(ism)– duality within one.”
This dimorphism — not only in the duality of sexes, but in the contrast of material and form — is fully realized in her new collection. It’s less street-wear and more sculptural — gold quilted pants, iridescent, hooded maxi dresses, an oversized fleece with reverse coattails that extend so long they transcend their own function. There’s a swift undercurrent of discomfort in Daimorf’s new work — albeit a subtle one, that lies in the preciousness of her chosen materials. Our perceptions of comfort fabrics are challenged: white bows morph from decoration to cage, faux fur becomes sinister, when strapped to the body like a tourniquet.
“There’s this quote from Miuccia Prada that’s always resonated with me — ‘there’s no specific decorative device. Her signature is psychological, rather than physical.’” She stops. “I don’t plan on ‘owning’ anything. I want it to be changing freely. I think it’s important that fashion morphs into a more fluid direction, and part of that is letting whatever the next project may be come to fruition naturally and go with whatever that may be, even if it challenges my previous aesthetics. Sometimes it’s fun to be surprised by a new direction you’re going in, and you just have to run with it.”
Photography: Topical Cream
Models: Neil O’Malley, Janiva Ellis